Quick'n'Easy Cauls for 1300s-1400s Headresses:  Early Misconceptions and Later Imitations 

by Cynthia Virtue aka Cynthia du Pré Argent

We have an interesting issue, here.  

Medieval examples	Medieval examples	Modern	Modern	A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away
			Here is Cynthia in these cauls, wimple, veil, and circlet.
1430 and 1440 I believe these are a self-contained structure that you can take on and off, not nets over hair.	Jean of Bourbon, died 1390, but I think it may be later than that date.	This one is a single piece construction, but gives a similar look.  Details of construction for this one are on another page.	Pamelina poses for us in these cauls, and a stuffed-roll hat with turned dags.	I don't think there's any doubt that the costume designer was thinking about the medieval cauls, eh?

More about Herbert Norris's book

Norris's Medieval Costume and Fashion, reprinted in 1999 by Dover, was originally published in 1927 as Costume & Fashion, Volume II: Senlac to Bosworth 1066-1485.  Due to the printing technology of the time, redrawings were often the best way to present pictures, but this sort of interpretation of the old works tends to introduce errors.  Norris's sources for the cauls are listed as:

Queen, from the time of Edward II (figure 300, p. 215): The figures of "weepers" on the tomb of John of Eltham represented kings and queens, relatives of the deceased.  It is not certain which is Margaret of France, second queen of Edward I, but all the queens are robed in costumes such as this lady and her niece, Isabella of France, Queen of Edward II, would wear.  Figure 300 is a drawing constructed from some of these "weepers." [...] The headdress is that described under figure 263, surmounted by the royal diadem." (263 is a lady with braided buns at the temples, with a wimple, veil, and circlet.)

Until I can find pictures of these weepers, my conclusion, based upon being able to find no reliable medieval images of just the earmuff cauls, or cauls with wimple and veil, is that Norris is mistaken, or, possibly, that we costumers have mistaken Norris.  He actually doesn't say that the cauls were only over the ears, but his pictures look like it.  He does mention the whole-head caul.

My conclusion: earmuff cauls are a modern invention.  What they really had was netting over buns at the temples and possibly the back of the head, and this when draped with veils and wimple, looks like earmuff cauls.

That said, maybe you want to make some anyway.  Most of this article was written several years before the above search for proof.  Carry on!

Let's put our cards on the table: this is *not* the authentic way to make these things, even if they were a documentable style -- but this version *does* give a very good appearance at a few feet away. This is not to say that everyone agrees how they (the medieval folks) did make them; could have been something like this; could have been entirely of wire (I doubt it, myself; see me if you're curious why not) could have been trained gold-colored snakes. 

You can read my info on the Arnolfini hat to find out more, or read how to make a reticulated headdress, which is a related style.  The cylinder caul/crespinette must certainly be related, and it, at least, can be documented, although apparently somewhat different proportions.

So, with that dispensed with, let's get to work.  This is a good project for one evening while watching TV.  All of this is hand sewing, but it's easy.
 

You'll need:

• Two (2) "teardrop" forms, available from your local fabric store bridal department. These cost somewhere around $5-7 each.
• Enough dark colored fabric to cover the forms -- I recommend something with nap (ie, "fuzz" which will look richer than flat fabric.  Wool, velvet, velveteen.)  However, the purple example below is "silkessence" which is polyester imitation silk, and it looks fairly good. "Enough" would be 1/3 yard of any fabric.  Less, actually, but usually you can't buy it in smaller amounts than that.
• Gold netting to cover the forms.  Several types are available in craft stores as "ribbons" or christmas supplies. Whatever you use, it should have a large distance between the gold cord: at least 1/2 inch or more.  If you can't find something that looks like gold wire, make your own from soutache braid.
• One yard of 1" wide ribbon - to match underfabric, or black.
• Thread, needle, straight pins, beads, other trim, etc, as needed.

This is how you do it:

Now, apply the gold netting.  If it is ribbon-style, apply the first strip along the center of the form, and tack it down by sewing.  Lay the next strip so that it appears to be a continuation of the structure of the first one.  Baste that down.  Use this process until the whole cap is covered.  Tack the edges of the netting down about 1/4 inch from the edge of the cap, so the ends don't frizz up when you trim them to the edge of the cap, just like you did with the under-fabric.

Now take the ribbon, and fold it over the edge of the form, so that it covers the raw edges of the net and the under fabric, as well as bending around the perimeter and going inside the form a bit.  You may want to pin it down, or not.  Sew this down neatly.

Lastly, use the remaing ribbon to make a span of ribbon between the two points of the juliet cap.  This will make it easy to keep on your head, but they will look like earmuffs, and your friends will tease you.  However, if they didn't do this, their cauls will be forever moving around, and you can laugh at them later.  Be sure the band is long enough -- on a largeish head there will be about 3" between the points.  Sew this down.  I am experimenting with a thin tie from the bottom of the caul that goes under the chin to stabilize them when worn under wimples.

You can add pearls, beads, and other trim as you like.   Wear it under a stuffed roll (also very easy) or other similar headgear.
 

	Two finished cauls.  Green glass beads, freshwater pearls, gold net, purple and gold ribbon covering purple bias binding at the edges. This view also demonstrates how these cauls can double as your Halloween "Xena" costume.  They also work for The Fly's eyes.
	Closeup of caul (click for large picture.)
	How Not to Do It: I started this pair sometime in the late 80s.  They're two strainers, and the gold is heavy couching thread, which is woven into the mesh, basketweave-like.  It seemed like a good idea at the time.  The strainers weren't a bad idea, (they were the sort that came easily off the handle) but if I ever re-do them, they'll be completely covered by fabric *first* and then have netting applied.

 
 

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